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Roaming in Rome

estelleluck97

Updated: Jun 13, 2023

Wandering around the cobbled streets lined with rich, terracotta buildings, the stresses of everyday life back home seemed miles away. As we turned corner after corner, exploring the nooks and crannies of the Italian capital, it felt amazing to feel the sun on our skin. Coupled with that was the warm, full feeling in our tummies — the kind of full you only get when you’ve enjoyed a delicious bowl full of tagliatelle washed down with a glass — or two — of vino. This is what I remember when I look back on mine and Jake’s trip to Rome, a city that has captured my heart (and my stomach!).


If you’ve been, you’ll no doubt feel the same way. And if you’re yet to go, I’m here to share some of my food, drink and culture highlights to help make it one of the best trips ever.

This was our first visit to Rome, so we knew we wanted to do the main bucket-list attractions — the Colosseum, Vatican City, the Roman Forum, etc. I have to confess, I was pretty skeptical about going to these places. Whenever I’ve done the usual tourist traps in the past, I’ve always been disappointed, much preferring the discoveries made off the beaten track. But these top Roman tourist attractions did not disappoint.


Colosseum

The Colosseum is as just as breathtaking as you would expect, especially when you ponder what used to happen there. We paid a little more for the arena tour (around £25 per person). This gives you a chance to walk out onto a platform placed where the floor would have been years ago. And if you look up at the surrounding structure, you can almost hear the crowd’s cheers echoing all around. Being there really does bring you one small step closer to imaging just what a gladiator was really like.


If you want the even fuller experience, though, you can pay to walk under the arena part, in what would have been the underground chambers. Whatever you fancy doing, try to book at least a couple days in advance — either through the official website or through another reputable vendor. We also found Tiqets to be quite good, and it tends to have tickets even when they’re out of stock on the usual website.


Roman Forum


Just across the way from the Colosseum is the Roman Forum. Usually, the Colosseum ticket you buy will include the entrance to this part, too. It’s basically a large area containing the ruins of what would have been the hub of Rome years ago. And when I say large, I mean large. It was way bigger than I was expecting, so my top tip would be to wear shoes you’re comfortable walking in. Oh, and don’t forget suncream as there isn’t much shade.

Seeing these ruins is pretty spectacular, but we felt that without a guide or even an audio tour, it was a little difficult to appreciate what each crumbling set of remains would have been like back in the day. So, to get a better sense of what you’re actually looking at, I’d recommend getting at least an audio tour or a booklet before you go. After a little research, we found that you can download some audio guides for free on Spotify. They’re anything from 30 mins to three hours long, so you can choose how much context you’d like depending on what interests you and how much time you have.


Vatican Museums

As you would perhaps expect, Vatican City is full of art, sculptures and statues. After entering, you make your way through various rooms and wings of the museums, perusing artifacts and paintings from Ancient Egypt, the Etruscans and, of course, the Romans. I had no idea there would be so much to see before you get to Michelangelo’s ceiling in the Sistine Chapel, but when you consider that popes have been adding to these collections since the 15th century, it’s hardly surprising.


We bought an audio tour for €8 each, which you can pick up just after entering. And we would 100 percent recommend doing this. You get given a little hand-held device that you can either hold up to your ear as you walk around or plug aux headphones into. Simply key in the numbers dotted around the rooms and enjoy learning more about the who, what, why, where and when!


All of the rooms simply help to increase the anticipation for Michelangelo’s famous ceiling. And when you finally get there, it doesn’t disappoint. As it’s a sacred space, you have to be silent, keep your shoulders and knees covered and you’re not allowed to take photos. For me, this merely added to the majesty and exclusivity of the piece, which I could have sat and looked at all day long (if my neck hadn’t started to ache, that is!). The more you look, the more you notice! I found the audio guide especially helpful here, as it talks you through the different sections of the painting and explains the complex technique used.

Did you know these artworks were actually painted onto wet plaster? This made the process incredibly time-sensitive and is why they’re nicknamed “frescos” today, which means “fresh” in Italian.


Just before entering the Sistine Chapel, you walk through four rooms where the ceilings have been painted by Raphael (Raffaello Sanzio da Urbino). These are also breathtaking and, in my opinion, are just as good as Michelangelo’s work. The artists were painting at the same time — between 1508 and 1512. When I was walking around, I imagined the duo to be friends, bonding over the progress of their works. But I’ve since learned they were sadly rivals in real life.


The Vatican is another destination where it pays to book in advance. That way, you’ll be able to get tickets through the official website and you won’t be charged extra by tour guide groups who buy and sell tickets in bulk.


The Pantheon

The Pantheon is free and well worth a visit if you have time. It’s a round church with a pane-free circular window in the roof and eight recessed sections inside — four chapels, three tombs and the altar. Again, you can learn more about these and the architecture of the building by buying a 20-minute audio tour once you’re inside. This will set you back about €8. Or simply wander around for a few moments, tracing the spot of sun as it moves majestically around the walls.


Spanish Steps & Trevi Fountain


You’ll have seen these spots on Instagram hundreds of times, and that’s because they’re must-dos when in Rome. Given that both the Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain are right in the centre, you’ll probably stumble across them multiple times if you’re there for a long weekend. That’s what happened to us, anyway! And each time, we stopped to admire them for a few minutes, took a photo and went on our way. No matter what time of day you go, these places will be packed with tourists. But it doesn’t make them any less beautiful. I’d recommend climbing Spanish Steps when the sun is setting, as the city’s skyline will be basking in a golden glow.

Top tip: You’re not allowed food while sitting around Trevi Fountain. If you do try to eat there and you suddenly hear lots of whistles, it’ll probably be the police warning you to move elsewhere!


Food and drink


For Jake and I, half the excitement of coming to Rome was down to the food. With so much to see and do, you need enough fuel in your stomach to keep you going — at least that’s what we told ourselves! Wanting every meal to be delicious, we did quite a bit of research beforehand, asking friends and people who live there for the restaurants they’d recommend. And I can now pass my favorite eateries on to you…

Two of the places we ate for dinner were in a part of the city called Trastevere, which is a bustling quarter filled with trattorias with ivy-clad courtyards, funky little wine bars and the promise of the perfect plate of pasta on nearly every cobbled street.


Tonarello – Via della Paglia 1,2,3, 00153 Rome Italy

When a place has a queue snaking all the way along a street, you know it’s going to be good. We waited about 30 mins for a table, and it was well worth it. I had tomato pasta with bacon and cheese, served in a rustic metal pan. It was a classic and the perfect start to our pasta-pizza crawl. Plus, this place was really reasonable; our bill came to around €40.


Babette — Via Margutta 1d, 00100 Rome Italy


This restaurant was in a totally different neighbourhood — up by the Piazza del Popolo. It felt a little quiet when we went inside, but the waiter took us out the back where it opens up onto a beautiful square courtyard framed with greenery. We had three courses: a starter, a pasta dish and a meaty main, which is the done thing in Italy. Everything was beautifully presented and a treat for the tastebuds. The ricotta, spinach and mint ravioli I ordered was my favourite. This restaurant was quite a bit more expensive than Tonarello, but it was definitely worth it in my opinion.


Ristorante Puntarella — Piazza del Drago, 10, 00153 Roma RM, Italy


This trattoria was again in trendy Trastevere. It sits in the corner of a quaint little square and has a similar-style menu to Babette. Choose from a selection of scrumptious starters, delicious pasta dishes and mouthwatering meat and fish dishes. I had a bowl of roasted cauliflower pasta followed by the biggest tuna steak I’ve ever seen!


Mimì e Coco — Via del Governo Vecchio, 72, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

This wine bar was a lucky find. When we stumbled across it, we were two weary explorers who’d just spent the morning walking around Vatican City, and we were very much in search of a pick-me-up! This place was everything we were looking for and more. It had a gorgeous rustic decor, with bottles and bottles of wine lining wood-clad walls inside. Candles burned and music played while people enjoyed bowls of pasta and glasses of vino. We desperately wanted to join them so grabbed a table inside and tucked into a delicious late lunch. I’d definitely recommend a visit here — even if you just get a glass of wine or an Aperol spritz.




Frigidarium — Via del Governo Vecchio, 112, 00186 Roma RM, Italy

Would it really be a trip to Rome without gelato? No is the answer! Don’t let the queue for this place put you off, either. When you make it to the front you’ll be greeted with an incredible selection of flavours. And it’s surprisingly good value for money. I had two scoops in a tub: coffee and the house flavor. I also got them dunked in dark chocolate. My mouth is watering just writing this.


Getting around


As you can probably guess, my favorite way to see a city is simply to walk. And you can definitely see the most, if not all, of Rome on foot. But for when your feet get sore — as they inevitably will — you can rely on the Metro. It’s very cheap and easy to use, with stops near Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps. You can get a one-journey ticket for €1.50 or a 24-hour pass for around €7.

What the metro isn’t so good for, though, is getting to Trastevere. For that, I’d recommend getting the tram, which will take you from the Altar of the Fatherland — a huge unmissable building — and across the Tiber river right into the heart of this busy food-and-drink hub.


Places we found on foot


Piazza Navona


This was actually the first place we ended up after arriving in Rome. After dropping our bags at the hotel, we headed out in search of a lovely spot where we could just take a breather and do a bit of planning. I saw this square on Google maps and decided to head there. Little did we know at the time, but it’s actually one of the recommended attractions!

We tucked into some pizza in one of the restaurants lining the edge — it was called Ristorante Tucci — and listened to the soothing “shhh” of water running in the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi. When we went back there a few days later, a man was playing the piano, and the way the sound echoed off the stunning buildings was just dreamy.


Villa Borghese


We made our way over to Villa Borghese with the intention of going to the Galleria Borghese, which is supposed to hold the impressive art collection started by a man named Cardinal Scipione Borghese back in the 17th century. Sadly, all the tickets were sold out. But you know what they say, every cloud has a silver lining. The walk to the gallery took us through a beautiful park. We saw locals out on Sunday morning runs and taking their dogs for walks. It turned out to be the perfect way to get a different perspective on Rome and see how the Romans spend their weekends. Plus, if you want to tour the whole park, you can hire bikes!


Barbarini


As we couldn’t get into the Galleria Borghese, we headed to the Barbarini Gallery, which holds a collection of very old paintings — some of the oldest in Rome. Many were of Jesus, and it was interesting to see the different interpretations of both his appearance and the events that occurred in his lifetime. My time in the gallery was calm and pensive and was a real contrast to the hustle and bustle outside. It was strangely therapeutic, and the art is well worth seeing. During our visit, the gallery was exhibiting some works by Hans Holbein, the German artist who painted Henry VIII, his wives and courtiers such as Thomas Cromwell. Having just finished Hilary Mantel’s novel The Mirror & the Light, I found this particularly interesting to see — even if, in my opinion, the painting of Henry with his burly stance was a little jarring compared to the rest of what was on display.

National Museum of the Palazzo di Venezia


At the entrance of this building is an archway, and if you look through it from the road, you’ll notice the lush lawns and palm trees. It was so beautiful that I couldn’t help but wander in just to see what the rest of the space looked like. When you get to the courtyard, which you don’t have to pay to enter, there’s a small fountain surrounded by perfectly pruned hedges and little cherub statues. For a moment, the tourists, the drone of mopeds and the horn honks seem very far away — even though in reality they’re just the other side of the wall. If you need a breather and a quiet space to take a pew, I’d 100 percent recommend checking it out.


Drinking water


Rome is amazing because dotted all over the city are fountains of drinking water. The water comes from the mountains outside of the city via a system built by the ancient Romans. Not only is this pretty cool, but I thought it would be a useful point to include in this post so you don’t have to keep buying bottled water — saving the planet and your pocket!

Rome, in my opinion, has something to offer everyone. Whether you’re a foodie, history buff, sun worshipper, a shop-till-you-dropper, art enthusiast or all of the above, you’ll find plenty to keep you entertained.

I hope this is helpful. Please email if you have any questions!


Estelle xo


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